Good lures are no longer cheap. Serious fishermen understand the value of high-end hooks, sturdy hardware, lasting finishes and distinctive functions, which often can’t be matched by discount lures. I use quality lures and I’m sure many of you do too. I’m also sure that, like me, you cringe whenever you lose one, whether it’s a $15 jerkbait or a jighead from a pack of four that costs almost as much as the jerkbait.
Learning how to overcome greed will save you cash and mental anguish. But let’s get one thing clear: Despite all the tricks, tips, and tricks designed to get rid of your hopelessly stuck lure, none of them work 100 percent of the time. And believe me, I’ve tried them all weighted variety This is supposed to slide your line down and free the lure fancy ones With chains and retractors. I always get a good smile from slide weights, as you always get more than one in a pack, which should let you know that they are not immune to getting caught in your lure.
The trick that has worked best for me over the years involves no third parties. This is a quick tip I learned from an old fishing guru when I was a teenager. I’ve always called it the “trigger method”, and while—as I said—nothing works All In that time, I have had more success retrieving trapped nets with this method than any other method. But before I explain this simple technique, we must start with the most important step, which involves only your mind.
preparing for success
Whether your bait is hung up in a piece of wood, stuck between rocks, or caught in a snare of line thrown into the lake by a careless fisherman, our first instinct is to pull hard on the rod to free the bait. After going away with all my strength, Then We’ll rummage through our tackle bags to retrieve the duhiki or try a more calculated approach. But to increase your chances of success with the trigger pull method, you don’t do this want to resort to after You just spent ten minutes trying here and there but to no avail. You want this to be your first step as soon as you get off work.
I understand that brute force can sometimes free a lure, but it can also turn a barely hooked lure into a seriously stuck lure, especially when you are in soft material like wood or weed. Similarly, if you are stuck in rocks, pulling forward may cause the lure to go deeper. All this force can bend the hook, break the lip and bend the hardware, which means the lure you get back may not be ready to be recast in any way.
Even when you hook a hook hard enough to think it’s a fish – which we’ve all done –don’t do this Keep pulling. If you can remember it, the trigger method can save the day.
Use trigger method
step 1
The trigger method works with spinning or baitcasting outfits, although the design of the spinning reel makes it a little easier to execute. As soon as you’re stuck, the first step is to simply take up any slack. You want the line to be taut to the lure, but not apply any strong pressure.
step 2
With the reel spinning, gather the line with your index finger as you would when making a cast. After this open the bail. If you’re using a baitcasting outfit, click the reel into the free spool and thumb the spool with enough pressure to keep the line from paying out.
step 3
Pull the rod as far back as you can to tighten the line. but do this slowlyNot pounding with too much force. If you’re fishing from shore, you can also take a few steps back to get the best pressure. Just make sure you don’t pull back so hard that the line breaks. Think of this step like making a bow.
step 4
By pointing the rod directly toward the blockage, you want to release the pressure on the line suddenly and rapidly. If you’re using a spinning reel, simply hold the line with a finger and release. With a baitcaster, ease the tension on your thumb so the spool can feed the line. This can be a little tricky, but you want to maintain enough contact to avoid the bird’s nest (although dealing with the tangle will be worth it if you get your $20 hard bait back).
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why it works
The idea with this method is that the quick jerk that loosens the line downstream will be transferred completely to the baited lure. The forward pressure created when pulling your line back will put further tension on the lure, and assuming you pulled the rod back slowly, this should not sink the hook or trap the lure too deeply. When that tension is broken, hopefully the lure will get just enough of a pop to free itself.
Here’s another method of unhooking a lure using the exact same principle, but be careful not to apply too much pressure to the tip of your rod when doing this:
How to remove fishing lures without a retriever!
So keep those good attractions hidden and know that you can (probably) free them when they get stuck. Don’t press down on the hook when they first hang.
