Welcome to GQ’s 201-level watch glossary, which breaks down advanced terms and specific references that are essential knowledge for every serious collector.
Allow me to propose a scenario that could give my fellow watch nerds a complete heart attack: You You have to choose a watch to wear all your life. It should be understated enough not to attract unwanted attention from your boss, but elegant enough to wear to work in London with a suit and tie. Adventure through the mountains in Nepal is tough enough, but actually beautiful enough to be confused with some Meaning Dressing up in New York. You get one watch, and only one watch. Does such a versatile watch even exist?
What is 1016?
In particular many Rolex fans would argue that it does, and it is named “1016”, a specific version of Crown’s flagship Explorer model that debuted in 1960. Although it was not the first iteration of the Explorer, it is considered by many to be the quintessential version of the watch. Housed in a 36 mm stainless steel case with a screw-down crown and smooth bezel, it went through several iterations, but each retained several key features: a black dial with an open chapter ring; Baton, a mixture of Arabic and triangular indices; a Mercedes/Lollipop handset; Chronometer certification text above 6 o’clock; and the words “ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL EXPLORER” below the Rolex coronet at 12 o’clock. In fact, this particular index arrangement is so iconic that it has come to be known as the “Explorer” dial – even when used on other models or by other brands.
Over the course of its nearly 30-year production run, Rolex would change the printing process and materials used to create the 1016’s dial, but its essence would remain the same: whether in attractive “gilt” or “matte”, which offers a more subdued aesthetic, the 1016 is instantly recognizable as such. The watch has no extra hands, complications or functions – which is a very important thing. Like a nice white T-shirt, this is a watch that almost reflects the personality of the wearer. “There are a lot of more expressive vintage Rolex watches out there, but that’s the charm of the Explorer – it’s a Rolex boiled down to its essence, and it asks you to bring the rest of the vision to the party,” says Stéphane Pulvirant, founder of Rhyme & Reason and longtime 1016 wearer. “In many ways it is a destination – but it is also the map to get there.”
In fact, the 1016 is an Explorer, and the Explorer is, in its essence, a field watch; At its core, it means keeping accurate time in the great outdoors on the wrist of someone who is venturing into uncharted territory. Born after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s Everest summit in 1953, the Explorer evolved from an Oyster Perpetual, whose own purpose was simply to act as a reliable timekeeper in all types of weather.
Why is 1016 considered the ideal watch model?
1016 is simplicity at its best. Thanks to its slim (and undeniably handsome) black dial, it can adapt to any outfit situation, while its relatively compact case dimensions mean it can slip right down the cuff. Its oyster bracelet—a key part of its identity—enhances its strong character, but also makes it dressy enough to wear with a suit. Meanwhile, the lack of a rotating bezel or pushers makes it unobtrusive, while its Oyster case and perpetual winding movement allow it to function even in adverse conditions.
