Linen is widely considered a classic fabric for summer sewing. It is prized for its breathable, distinctive and comfortable wrinkles that give it much character. But not every tailor agrees that linen is the best choice for warm weather.
in naples, rafal Talks to several tailors and textile experts about the fabrics they prefer for summer suits, jackets and trousers. Their answers range from traditional linen to open weave wool, hopsack, mohair, hemp, silk and lightweight blended fabrics.
Rather than identifying a universal winner, the discussion explores why the perfect summer garment depends on the climate, occasion, and type of garment being made.
Watch the full discussion to examine the clothes up close, hear the tailors explain their personal preferences, and learn why many of their choices challenge traditional notions about summer clothing.
Five Neapolitan Perspectives on Summer Clothes
featuring insights from Sartoria ciardi, Sartoria Solito, Sartoria carphora, Sartoria Dalcoure, And rubinackiThe discussion shows how different experienced tailors can evaluate the same warm weather clothing.
Some people prefer linen because of its comfortable character, while others place more importance on crispness, airflow, drape, or crease resistance. Together, their perspectives offer a comprehensive view of what truly makes a garment perfect for summer.
ask the experts
What is high-twist wool?
High-twist wool is made from threads spun with greater tension. This generally produces a crisp, dry fabric with good elasticity and crease recovery. It is commonly used for summer suits and trousers as it can provide air flow without compromising the structure.
Is Hopsack suitable for summer?
Hopsack’s basket-like weave can make it breathable and textural, especially when used for blazers and sport coats. However, its open construction may be more susceptible to blockage, and not every hopsack fabric is suitable for trousers.
What does mohair add to a summer suit?
Mohair can add crispness, flexibility and clean drape when blended with wool. It can also produce a subtle sheen, making some mohair fabrics particularly suitable for formal or evening tailoring.
Which fabric is best for summer trousers?
Summer trousers generally require greater durability and crease resistance than lightweight sport-coat fabrics. High-twist wool and strong linen are common choices, but the best choice depends on climate, desired formality, and tolerance for wrinkles.
Do light clothes always feel cold?
No, a light fabric can still feel warm if it is woven too tightly. A slightly heavier fabric with a more open weave may allow more air flow, as well as drape better and resist wrinkles.
Why do tailors disagree about linen?
Different linen fabrics can behave very differently. Some are light and airy, while others are dense, substantial and tightly woven. Tailors may also prioritize different qualities including air flow, wrinkle resistance, structure, softness, or traditional summer character.
What is the best fabric for summer sport coats?
Hopsack, linen, and blends containing wool, silk, or linen are all popular possibilities. Sport coats allow for more texture and visual interest than business suits, but the final choice should still suit the climate and expected level of wear.
How can I tell if a fabric is breathable?
Hold the fabric toward the light source and check how much light passes through the weave. A clearly open structure often indicates better air flow, although durability, opacity and garment construction must also be considered.
what to look forward to
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