Jeans have been around for over 150 years, but there’s still a lot of confusion when it comes to caring for them. For proof, you only need to read one of the many threads on the topic on r/denim (or anywhere else denimheads congregate), where debate rages about the correct way to wash your favorite denim pair.
Some people say you should wash your jeans a few times a year, while others avoid washing them altogether. Others still advocate unconventional methods, such as freezing, washing in salt water, or rubbing with beach sand. Unfortunately for anyone looking for a simple answer to this question, there is none. How often to wash denim depends on a number of factors, including how often you wear them, what they’re made from, and how you want them to look, but the “best” way to care for them depends largely on how much effort you’re willing to put in. We consulted some denim enthusiasts for best practices.
Origin of the debate
According to Kia Babazani, founder of raw specialist denim retailer Self Edge, the whole controversy started in the late ’90s, when a handful of European denim brands started selling raw selvage jeans and advising customers that the best way to ensure high-contrast fading was to wash them once a year, or even better, never. He says, “This message got repeated through message boards and forums and raw denim blogs in the 2000s, and it just stuck.”
a surefire way
Whether you have deadstock Cone White Oak Selvedge jeans or Levi’s from Amazon, the best way to ensure uniform fade and longevity is more or less the same. “There are many different theories and recommendations on how to properly care for denim, and I’ve actually tried them all,” says Nick Kemp, design director at Huckberry. Luckily, the way to win is very simple. “I wash my jeans inside-out in cold water and hang them to dry.” The last point is probably the most important, and it doesn’t just apply to jeans. “We really don’t recommend putting any clothes in the dryer except your underwear,” says Babazani.
