I thought readers would find it interesting. Ben Clarke, the special cutter who made an excellent jacket and waistcoat for me when I was with Richard James, has set up an establishment of this name in Brighton Atelier Tyzac And using two different cuts, each a cross between the British structured style and the softer Southern Italian.
He asked me to help him prepare it A video for their website Explaining the ideas and differences behind them. This is the video, and I think it’s interesting:
- The fact that he wanted to create two unique cuts rather than copy destiny
- How expensive it is to do this, and almost impossible in most homes that use an outside coatmaker.
- Why he thinks high armholes are less relevant than before (I agree)
- How he likes to displace the shoulder seam forward
- He creates canvas in different ways for each type
The jacket on the mannequin on the left is her more structured (or North) cut. It’s similar to the jacket that Ben cut for me earlier. The one on the right is an example of a softer (south) cut and it’s something I’ll probably try with him next time.
For anyone particularly interested in watching me break out those two jackets, we start doing so at 23:40.
Ben carries out appointments in London as well as Brighton and will be using our showroom for the next appointments on 20th July. his contact is Here.
