I grew up backpacking with my very outgoing parents, but once they turned 50, they drew a line in the sand. They were happy to go hiking, but they refused to sleep on the ground, which is totally reasonable. His back and hips were hurting, and he was thinking about packing on 30 more pounds.
And it’s not just older people who want to give up camping. There are many people of all ages who love the outdoors, but, for whatever reason, don’t want to sleep in a tent. Unfortunately, it refuses to participate in most long distance travel (sleeping in a tent on the PCT or AT is a requirement for the experience).
However, those looking for a little more luxury in their hiking experience have an option in the Pacific Northwest. The 400-mile Oregon Coast Trail (OCT) offers a variety of lodging options from campgrounds to inns and fancy hotels. For those who want some creature comforts along with their outdoor adventures, OCT is a great fit.
Here’s everything you need to know about this customizable path.
way
The OCT runs along the state’s coastline from the border of Washington to the border of California. The trail passes through several of Oregon’s state parks, and passes both beaches and lush rainforests. On a typical day, you might spend several hours wandering alone on a pristine beach, then passing through a small seaside tourist town, and then through a forest of Sitka spruce trees.
It’s also a great opportunity to see some of the area’s signature wildlife, including puffins, stellar sea lions, murres, Roosevelt elk and a whole host of other birds. I saw several seals (probably sea lions, not sure which one) resting along the beaches.
I completed the first 96 miles of OCT in June, and it was a dream. The elevation gain was moderate, the trail was well-marked overall, and the views and landscape were worth every step. And unlike other popular hiking trails, there are no permits and no lottery for entry.
temporary accommodation
There are plenty of options for people who don’t want to camp but still want to hike part or all of OCT. Every day, you’ll pass through at least one seaside town with motels, hotels, and Airbnbs. Obviously, this requires some advance planning. The Oregon Coast is popular as a summer vacation destination, so accommodations can fill up on weekends and holidays such as the Fourth of July.
The cost is, obviously, a little more than camping. However, you will be surprised that it is not much. Dispersed camping is not allowed throughout much of the OCT, so hikers have to stay in Oregon state parks or private campgrounds, which are not cheap. These can easily run up to $70 per night. Depending on location, spending a night in a local motel may not cost much.
Staying in a hotel or B&B also has the benefit of significantly reducing the weight of your pack. You won’t need a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc., so your pack will be much lighter, and you can get on the trail much faster. You may pay more for accommodation, but you’ll complete the trip in less time, meaning fewer nights.
If you’re planning to live in housing, there are a few things to consider. Towns along the route may be unevenly spread. This means that some days should be short (less than 10 miles), and some days should be long (more than 20 miles). Some places offer accommodation, but no other services, so you’ll need to purchase food ahead of time.
At many points along the way, arranging for ferry or boat transportation can help you avoid walking several miles on a narrow side of the road. I called the marina a few days ahead of time and found it easy to arrange a boat ride. They cost anywhere from $10 to $40, and I appreciated the opportunity to talk with locals and experience the landscape from a different perspective.
Eat
Just like where you choose a place to sleep, the food on this trail is entirely what you make of it. There is plenty of access to grocery stores, so you can eat out once every few days, and eat actual fresh food like fruits, sandwiches, chips, etc. Seaside cities are also home to abundant restaurants, cafes, delis, breweries and coffee shops.
On my week-long hike, I brought dehydrated food, snacks, and a stove and fuel. I stopped a few times for a sandwich or burrito as a break from my freeze-dried food. Nothing gives you a mental boost on a long day than a big breakfast burrito with cheese, bacon and crispy potatoes.
Whatever your budget is, you can make do with it. If you’re a sucker for shit, you can easily survive on bread and peanut butter, but if you want a chance to dine at a five-star restaurant after a long day of travel, you can do that too. This part of Oregon is also a famous crabbing and fishing spot, so if you love seafood, there are plenty of local joints to enjoy it.
resources
The Oregon Coast Trail Foundation is a non-profit organization that supports maintenance of the trail. Its website A great resource for planning and news on any potential disruptions. there is also one guidebook by Bonnie Henderson which I found extremely useful. It breaks down each section day by day, and has a lot of information about boat crossings and logistics.
If you’re looking for quick info on what to expect and what to bring, check out my travel guide (note I chose camping).
It’s possible to reach many points along the route via public transport, so if you only want to do part of the OCT, you should be able to get in and out without a car.
There are some backpackers and thru-hikers (especially online) who will scoff at not camping on the trail, but don’t let them stop you. Do whatever itinerary you want or want to plan outings. There is no purity test when it comes to being an outsider, so take your time and enjoy the journey.
