Derek Guy, fashion writer and founder Die, workwear!Says to try to choose the heaviest weight you can comfortably wear regardless of the weather. “About 12-14 ounces. Is a good start. Lighter fabrics lose their shape and don’t wear as cleanly, which can make the trousers look flimsy.”
Do you want your pants to stay on? This description is a good sign
It’s easy to get caught up in the minute details, but Guy says there’s an easy way to check quality. “But the real gift? The inlay—or more often, the lack thereof.” Inlay is an additional fabric located on the seat and side seams of the pants and allows for easy alterations. “When companies are working with tight margins,” he says, “inlays are one of the first things they cut. High-end manufacturers, on the other hand, leave generous inlays as a sign of quality—and as a practical signal for changes down the line.”
How should dress pants fit?
The inherent flexibility of altering a pair of dress pants is key in dialing in the proper fit. Of course, you can only go so far when taking advantage of inlays, but Guy says it’s not that complicated when you’re looking for the right fit. “Fit refers to a narrow set of technical criteria, and the guiding principle is simple: trousers should hang neatly.” If possible, it helps to check yourself in a three-way mirror. Guy says to look for any areas where the clean lines of the drape are disrupted – flapping at the pockets, billowing at the legs, or fabric getting caught at the calves. Bulging pockets usually mean that there is not enough room across the hips or lap. If the rear bulge is too long, it can cause waves on the back of the legs. And if the fabric is sticking up the back of the legs, it’s a sign that the pants are too thin.
The tailor should be able to work on altering a pair of dress pants to your taste, but “as a general rule,” says Guy, “the less you need to alter, the better the result.”
How we test and review products
Style is subjective, we know – that’s the fun of it. But we’re serious about helping our audiences prepare. Whether it’s the best white sneakers, the most affordable suits, or the most must-have menswear drops of the week, the perspective of GQ recommendations is built on years of practical experience, an insider’s awareness of what’s what and what’s next, and a mission to find the best version of everything at every price point.
Our staff isn’t able to try on every single piece of clothing you read about on GQ.com (fashion moves fast these days), but we have an intimate knowledge of each brand’s strengths and we know the hallmarks of quality clothing — from materials and sourcing, to craftsmanship, to sustainability efforts that aren’t just greenwashing. GQ recommendations draw on our own editorial experience with those brands, how they make their clothes, and how those clothes have been reviewed by customers. The bottom line: GQ wouldn’t ask you to wear it if we didn’t.
How do we make these choices?
We make every effort to cast as wide a net as possible, with an eye on identifying the best options in three key categories: quality, SuitableAnd price.
To start this process, we enlisted the GQ recommendations braintrust to vote on our contenders. Some of the people involved have worked in retail, delivering clothes to people; Others have worked hard for small-batch menswear labels; Everyone spends too much time thinking about what hangs in their closet.
