Published November 8, 2026 04:00AM
A weak summer sun strains to break through a darkening wall of clouds, its rays catching the shale. My boots methodically kick the rock loose as I work my way up a steep slope of scree. I’m slick with sweat, my helmet is chafing, and I’m completely alone in my misery. But the painstaking plod up the ridgeline of Bertha Peak in Waterton Lakes National Park does come with its rewards. When I stop to catch my breath, my gaze sweeps south toward the rugged peaks of neighboring Glacier National Park before flicking north toward my home in Calgary, Canada, and the wild swathes of prairie that define southern Alberta.
Named for Bertha Ekelund, a bold, “wayward” Waterton pioneer whose colorful past included attempts to pass counterfeit money, Bertha Peak reflects something of the untamed wilderness the local legend called home. As I take in the view, it strikes me that this is a landscape that still rewards those willing to venture a little farther—something I’ve striven to do since my first visit to this park as a child.
A Quieter Alternative to Glacier National Park
While hikers flock to Glacier’s trails just across the border, I’m happy to enjoy the same wild landscapes without the crowds. And, at a time when Canada-U.S. relations are increasingly defined by political tension and division, this shared wilderness offers a different perspective. Established in 1932 as the world’s first International Peace Park, Waterton-Glacier reminds us that borders can connect as much as they divide. Peace parks have now been established in 30 places around the world, serving as symbols of cooperation, conservation, and understanding between neighboring nations. For Canadians like me and in-the-know Americans, Waterton offers a quieter way to experience the Rockies, with room to roam and the chance to find solitude in the mountains.
Despite sharing a border with Glacier, the experience of the two parks couldn’t be more different. Waterton Lakes receives a fraction of Glacier’s visitors; in 2025, Glacier saw more than 3 million visitors compared with just half a million in Waterton. You can drive the scenic Red Rock Parkway to the ruddy landscape of Red Rock Canyon without waiting in line, worrying about closures due to congestion, or having to book a shuttle. And while backcountry campsites still require permits, you don’t have to fight the crowds when reservations open to secure a night in the wilderness. A variety of trails from the family-friendly hike to Bertha Falls to the challenging Carthew-Alderson Trail, along with non-hiking pursuits such as kayaking, cycling, and dark-sky viewing, make Waterton an easy addition to a trip across the border.
A Landscape Reborn by Fire
In 2027, Waterton will also mark the tenth anniversary of the Kenow Wildfire, which burned nearly 20,000 hectares of Waterton in 2017, and its effects are still visible. Where thick stands of trees once stood, charred trunks now rise from lush regrowth, surrounded by the vibrant violet blooms of fireweed. The anniversary provides an opportunity to explore a larger story of shared landscapes, resilience, and cross-border conservation. As governments debate borders, the mountains offer a clear reminder: here, the international boundary is little more than a line on a map, and hiking across it feels like an uncomplicated expression of peace. Even amid the devastation, the fire revealed the resilience of the ecosystem and the importance of giving it space to recover.
A decade later, visitors can see forests regenerating, wildflowers returning and wildlife—including the broad-shouldered grizzlies, shaggy plains bison, and the elusive wolverine—moving through a landscape reshaped by fire. It’s a reminder that conservation doesn’t stop at the border: Waterton and Glacier remain a rare model of international cooperation, where hikers cross between countries through the mountains, wildlife moves freely, and conservation efforts extend across two nations.
The Hotel That Became a Speakeasy
The Prince of Wales Hotel, one of Canada’s most famous heritage sites, was built in part to lure booze-starved Americans across the border and away from the restrictions of Prohibition. You know you’ve arrived in Waterton Lakes when the hotel, perched on a grassy knoll above Upper Waterton Lake, comes into view against the mountainous backdrop. With the park’s striking peaks and indigo lakes, the hotel faces stiff competition for the spotlight. Yet the building has become an icon in its own right, symbolizing the enduring character of this under-the-radar corner of the Canadian Rockies. Turning 100 in 2027, the hotel was the brainchild of Louis Hill, a driving force behind the development of Glacier National Park. Hill saw Americans’ frequent trips to Europe as a failure of domestic tourism.
World War I and Prohibition delayed construction, and the hotel finally opened in 1927. When Alberta repealed its prohibition laws in 1924, Waterton gained a new appeal for Americans seeking a legal drink. Nowadays, visitors can take in panoramic views of Upper Waterton Lake and the surrounding mountains while enjoying a meal or drink in the historic lounge before retiring to a room that retains its original charm. The lakeview rooms are well worth the splurge (a night at the height of summer will set you back about $600-$700 CAD / $425-$495 USD). The Royal High Tea is a guest-favorite; a chance to get dressed up and savor the hotel’s old-world charm alongside delicate treats and a steaming pot of tea.
A Wilder Side of the Rockies
Today the hotel also draws visitors for the wilderness on its doorstep, and trust me, Waterton’s trails will make you earn the view. If you have time for only one adventure, I recommend Crypt Lake, the park’s best-known hike, which begins with a boat ride—expect to pay $35 CAD/$25 USD for a ticket—across Upper Waterton Lake before climbing toward a turquoise lake hemmed in by towering peaks. Near the top, a narrow ledge, a 60-foot ladder, and a short tunnel through the mountain turn a demanding hike into a full-on expedition.
Elsewhere, the landscape changes character. Red Rock Canyon glows crimson along the Red Rock Parkway, its rust-colored stone an unexpected contrast to the surrounding mountains. At Bertha Falls, water spills down a smooth rock face before the trail continues toward Bertha Lake, a high alpine basin that feels a world away from the townsite below. And from Bear’s Hump, the Prince of Wales Hotel looks almost miniature against the vast sweep of mountains and water. These are my go-to family-friendly hikes in Waterton, offering big scenery and memorable journeys without the commitment of a full day on the trail.
For those seeking a longer hike, I also highly recommend Akamina Ridge, where a challenging scramble along an exposed ridgeline leads to sweeping views of Wall Lake, Forum Lake and the rugged peaks straddling the Alberta-British Columbia border. Another favorite of mine is the long Carthew-Alderson traverse, which reveals a wilder side of the park, where the crowds thin and the scale of the landscape takes over.
Where the Border Becomes a Bridge
From the shore of Upper Waterton Upper Lake, the international border is invisible, but out on the water, you realize how arbitrary it really is—mountains, forests, and wildlife pay no mind to the line dividing Alberta from Montana. Boarding the Waterton Shoreline Cruise Co., the world’s first International Peace Park feels like a living reality as the same continuous wilderness stretches across two countries.
Opt for the longer interpretive cruise to Goat Haunt, Montana, which includes a 30-minute stop at the ranger station. You’ll take in sweeping peak views, spot wildlife, and enjoy the novelty of being in two countries in one afternoon without passing a border checkpoint.
Hikers can cross the international border between Waterton and Glacier National Park, but must carry a valid passport and follow customs reporting requirements on both sides. Those entering the U.S. must report through the CBP ROAM app on the day of crossing, while anyone returning to Canada must report their re-entry to the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) by phone. A popular option is to hike one-way to Goat Haunt and return by boat.
Waterton’s history isn’t confined to its mountain trails or the old buildings of the townsite either. Believe it or not, you can scuba dive in Waterton’s lakes. The water may be cold, but visibility can be excellent, making the sheltered and scenic waters of Emerald Bay of Upper Waterton Lake particularly appealing to divers. Beneath the surface, at a depth of about 65 feet, lies the wreck of the Gertrude, an early-20th-century paddle wheeler.
If diving in chilly mountain water isn’t your idea of fun, there are plenty of warmer-weather ways to get on the lakes. I recommend renting a kayak, canoe or stand-up paddleboard and getting out on the surface of the water to soak in those mountain views from a different perspective. Parks Canada does require non-motorized watercraft entering Waterton’s lakes to be rented within the park, with options including Blakiston & Company in town and Cameron Lake Boat Rentals on the shore of Cameron Lake.
For a glimpse of Waterton after dark, join a stargazing tour with Dark Sky Guides, co-founded by Keith Robinson, who has been guiding professionally for 25 years and was born and raised in the park. Waterton became an official International Dark Sky Park in 2021, and Parks Canada replaced the community’s streetlights with custom amber fixtures designed to reduce light pollution, using roughly one-third the power of lighting in major cities. The result is an unusually dark sky, making Waterton one of the most southerly places where I have consistently seen the dancing northern lights. The tour offers an introduction to the night sky while also exploring Waterton’s nocturnal wildlife—an activity I’ve found that’s great to do with kids.
Winter’s Wild Side
If you’ve seen the hit show The Last of Us, you may remember a winter scene that gave you chills just watching it. That’s because winter in Waterton, where part of the show was filmed, is not for the faint of heart. However, I’ve found that if I’m willing to brave wild winds, freezing temperatures, and heavy snow I have the frost-dusted landscape almost entirely to myself.
Winter is also prime time for stargazing and aurora spotting, and with the earlier sunsets, I appreciate that I don’t have to stay up until the wee hours to catch them. By day, the park becomes a snowy playground, with cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, fat biking, wildlife watching, and winter walks. The best thing to do in winter here is to ski or snowshoe approximately two miles toward Cameron Lake. I book a couple of spots in a nearby winter-only six-person backcountry cabin (via the Alpine Club of Canada) and enjoy a family-friendly backcountry experience without avalanche risk. I also love to explore the Red Rock Parkway, which closes to vehicles in winter and becomes a nine-mile route for winter recreation.
While most businesses close for the winter, the charming Kilmory Lodge remains open. In the evenings, I cuddle up beside the roaring fire with a piping hot drink, then settle in for a meal at the Lamp Post Dining Room. The Parks Canada visitor center is also open daily during the snowy season, providing maps, trail and weather information, and winter safety advice.
One important note: there are no grocery stores or gas stations operating in Waterton during winter, so arrive with a full tank and provisions.
Jennifer Malloy is a freelance writer based in Calgary, Alberta. Her recent work highlights the best runcations around the world.
