A comprehensive education on American culinary traditions must include African American foods. Needless to say, there is no single culture that defines American cuisine. From crops grown by indigenous people to ingredients brought to America by immigrants seeking a taste of home, the library of American recipes is contained in a melting pot. But, today, I’m focusing on three excellent books about African American food and food practices, including my current reads that I’ve been meaning to read ever since watching its Netflix series adaptation. More than cookbooks, high on the hog By Jessica B. Harris, Taste of Country Cooking by Edna Lewis, and Eulogy for kitchen ghosts By Crystal Wilkinson Tell the stories of the foods, traditions, and recipes that came with enslaved Africans, endured for generations to come, and became an indelible part of American cuisine.
High on the Hog: A Culinary Journey from Africa to America By Jessica B. Harris
If you like deeply informative and heartwarming food documentaries, I hope you check this out Netflix adaptation based on Harris high on the hog. It’s impossible not to learn emotionally about the birth of African-American cuisine because the story is rooted in the brutal history of slavery. Harris, who wrote an excellent memoir my soul looks backTakes us for a detailed, beautifully written look at our culinary history from the markets of coastal Africa and the West Indies to the plantations of the American South and the kitchens and restaurants of African Americans. And you have to learn the history before you can get to the recipes at the book’s conclusion.
Taste of Country Cooking by Edna Lewis
All you need to know about culinary legend Edna Lewis, and you can start by reading this new York Times Profile on chef and cookbook author (gifted link) and his book, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. Taste of Country Cooking Louise’s memories of growing up in rural Virginia combined the dishes she continued to savor long after leaving Freetown. The memories of Lewis are as delicious as her yeast rolls, brandied peaches and pan-braised spareribs. Dishes are sorted by season with menus like “An Early Summer Breakfast” and “Sunday Revival Dinner.”
Eulogy for Kitchen Ghosts: Stories and Recipes from Five Generations of Black Country Cooks By Crystal Wilkinson
Crystal Wilkinson has collected the recipes of her Appalachian ancestors in this gorgeous book, which shares “the complexity of Black Mountain culture and food” and is packed with family photos. You’ll find Southern favorites like chicken and dumplings along with a healthy twist on soup beans. You’ll walk into the woods with 12-year-old Wilkinson, armed with a notebook, and her grandmother in search of wild greenery. You’ll never again be confused about what to do with a ton of blackberries (besides eating them by the handful). Wilkinson brings much-needed attention to the existence of the Black Appalachian Foodway.
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