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If your glasses constantly slide down, pinch the temples, or leave red marks on your nose, the problem is usually not your face, the problem is that there aren’t really any frames made for it.
we returned shou shou brillen In Vienna, this time to commission a pair of custom acetate eyeglasses from scratch and follow the entire process from the first fitting to the final hand-polish.
Commissioning Bespoke Glasses at Shou Shou Brillen
Building a custom pair from scratch in Vienna
Sven Raphael Schneider And jack collins back to shou shou brillen In Vienna, this time to commission a pair of custom acetate eyeglasses from scratch. optician Paul While working as an artisan, he handles fitting work in the shop’s RotenturmStrasse showroom Hannah Makes frames by hand in the family workshop perchtoldsdorf. The video follows the entire process – fitting, material selection and construction – from the first measurement to the final polish.
“Bespoke eyewear is designed to fit you perfectly, both on a comfort level as well as a stylistic level – and that’s really what it’s all about.”
Sven Raphael Schneider, CEO and Founder, Gentleman’s Gazette
Why a Proper Fit Matters More Than You Think
Most off-the-rack glasses are made to certain sizes, which is why they tend to slide down, pinch, or leave marks, no matter what their price. This video breaks down the specific measurements that really matter, like bridge height, temple length, lens-channel accuracy, and shows what it looks like when a frame is built to your exact numbers. It’s a useful watch before your next optician visit, whether you’re on a budget or not.
4 essential sunglasses for men
Highlights of this video
1
“Wow. It’s almost like a pyramid.”
A side-by-side comparison shows how a keyhole bridge was making a face shape appear longer than it actually was.
2
“Temple length is a measurement most people have never really taken.”
The real reason why your glasses keep slipping down your nose — and why off-the-rack temples can’t fix it.
3
“It either matches the lens exactly, or the entire front piece is useless.”
Why is the lens channel the most unforgivable step in the entire build?
4
“You only realize the fit is right when you stop thinking about the glasses altogether.”
Watch the final round of live adjustments made in fractions of a millimeter.
5
“The special process forces you to be patient, and that patience is the actual product you are buying.”
A case in point as to why 24-28 hours in a tumbling drum is no time wasted.
“A special suit may be an investment that you like to wear occasionally, but special glasses are something I like to wear every day.”
Jack Collins, Senior Content Manager, Gentleman’s Gazette
Watch our previous video on Schau Schau Brillen
Before creating a custom pair, we sat down with Paul to understand the rules of finding the right frames for your face shape.
ask the expert
What is the real difference between buffalo horn and acetate frames?
Horn is keratin – the same material as fingernails – and it’s light, warm against the skin, and develops a unique patina the longer you wear it. It is difficult to work and the cost is also high. Acetate is more affordable and offers a wider range of colors and patterns, as it has been illegal to use real tortoise shell for decades.
Why does almost no one measure the length of their temples correctly?
Most opticians don’t have the equipment or time. Standard frames only come in a handful of fixed temple lengths, so off-the-rack glasses are made to be “close enough,” not your typical hinge-to-ear distance. A special fitting measures that distance with a calibrated hand – which is often the de facto solution for glasses that constantly slide down.
What is a “keyhole” bridge, and can removing it change the appearance of your nose?
The keyhole bridge is the typical notch-shaped cutout you’ll see on many frames, including most aviator style sunglasses. On some face shapes, this can exaggerate the length of the nose. Removing it and rebuilding the bridge from the center out – while widening the frame slightly to keep the proportions balanced – can completely correct that effect.
Why is lens color the final decision in a particular make?
Because the final finish of the frame – matte versus glossy, the exact tone of the acetate – changes how a given lens color actually looks once it’s in place. Choosing a lens before the frame is finished means choosing it blind to some extent.
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what to look forward to
Inside Rudolf Scheer and Sohne
200 years of bespoke history
How to make a bespoke dressing gown
Zam Jockey Club Tour
Maftei Bespoke Shoemaking
Installation of an “impossible” pair of shoes from Maftei, Vienna