friends and Stylist Tom Stubbs Obsessed with vintage silk bomber jackets — when we saw her at an event recently, she looked amazing (above). It’s an interesting category, like a little military, fashion version. gab jacket. It’s definitely not for everyone, but it’s easy to find if you like a sombre silhouette. Here’s Tom’s story of how he got involved with them – and where he got it.
By Tom Stubbs.
“I won’t dress like bloody Kevin Bacon dancing For this entire series, okay?” My TV-host client followed the instructions with defiance. “How about Don Johnson Miami ViceThen?” I retorted. And thus my current stylistic obsession was set in motion.
The weekly NFL TV show I was preparing him for required a wearable American accent in the presenter’s wardrobe. With a vague image of Sonny Crockett in mind, I dutifully searched the Internet for silky, slinky bomber jackets.
Blow Me Up, a rich vein of cool, slutty bomber-chic was revealed. Almost a genre in itself, silk zip bombers (especially those with a flavor of the eighties) are definitely up there: a seemingly unused resource that has also provided me with a new look I didn’t even realize I was desperate for. Interestingly, all of these increasingly acquired ‘classic’ pieces have special characteristics.
Since the basic feature of ‘silk-bombs’ is silk, naturally they are all light weight. Did Mr. Johnson really wear a silk blouse Miami Vice That’s a completely different matter, because it was intended to just be good-looking, lightweight, TV studio-friendly outerwear in that general experience.
These silk ultra-lights work well, wearing them as a nice insertion into the (contemporary) university style we’re running for the show. And I became confused as I experimented with the silk bombs I had collected and unleashed powerful stylistic forces.
Although these rugged, parachute jackets are of military origin, they are unabashedly non-robust; A paradox I’m enjoying. Just as the knit of a polo neck denatures a tailored ensemble, these silk bombs ‘de-functionalize’ military or workwear looks, making them seem gaudy and trivial by comparison. I haven’t used such light, heavy men’s gear since Katharine Hamnett reissues her Parachute silk, symbolic of the eighties.
The military inspiration is also evident in details such as workwear topstitching and pocket detailing. Some feature huge map pockets and additional paneling. Double and triple stitches run parallel to the zip, while hip pockets often reinforce the side entry And Buttoned flaps at top.
how to wear
This ‘contra-casual’ style is an effective tool to enhance an outfit. Our silk bombshells on TV took a conservative edge from Dermot (O’Leary)’s chino-prep, making it more rough and edged. Silk also matches well with denim, which in turn complements the colors of silk much better.
Another presentable customer wore a vivid jade bomber (with an amber sweatshirt) against true blue denim, and while I reject the ‘it pops’ terminology, you can imagine the effect.
Even in vibrant colors the jacket is surprisingly easy to wear, and looked effortless on that customer’s 6’5″ frame, because we made sure the size was generous enough to maintain the necessary slouch quotient. If you’re wearing a silky slouch, wear a larger for heaven’s sake.
I also propose these silk bombers as indoor-out-wear under stronger layers. This thing evolved into late winter, so I was wearing them as layers under heavy shearling or solid overcoats.
For example, a metallic gammon-pink silk bomb with dark wide jeans and an oversized retro-sheepskin overcoat (below). Interestingly, the sheepskin and bomber share sixties skinhead references, although not in the same silhouette.
The indoor benefits come when the outer layer is removed upon arrival: you are handed over to chic free-mobility. It’s a look, a layer, a bomber but not a bothersome one. Even with smart tailored trousers they work the American officer leisure look of the fifties: sharp pleat volume with blouson silk proportions.
shoulder pad
Yes. I was surprised to find out that every single one of these people is padded! Their cushioned silhouette is a key feature, and ranges from subtle, non-rolling roundness to sharp angled ‘set in’ pads.
Intrigued by this silhouette effect I have obtained a list of pad sizes and styles from haberdasheries, and have decided to add booster pads to all those that lack them. They are now all installed in my Silk Bomber squadron. As I progress, understanding how the fixed pads work properly, most are simply safety pinned to the inside of the bombers, which now look like giant makeshift brassieres.
I take care not to expose these inserts to my local abrasive environment The pub – The Prince George in Dalston – is where I drink wine and peruse fashion accessories, almost as a style testing ground. I joined the diverse group of old friends there very early on, and it’s one of the coolest gaffs in the capital, a heady mix of eighties pop stars and Gen Z ultra-trendies.
One last distinguishing feature of these jackets: While they all have the classic MA1 bomber rib-knit collar and waistband, the collars are all dropped and exaggerated, accentuating the slouch.
where to buy
If any of these things appeal to you, I recommend starting on eBay. Vintage shops, markets and charity shops are hit and miss because they lack expert access to the internet.
There are almost zero brand names in my pieces that I recognize, and incredibly affordable prices. Shocking Price Reveal Alert: All of my collections are under £30. Some of the best are £13 or £16, and the most expensive was £22.70 (a rare actually recognized name from Dunn & Co – the ‘Silkthread’ line).
The unknown labels are attractive, mainly eighties items but many early nineties items emulating eighties motifs. Exclusive and previously unknown brands include ‘Signe Incognito’, ‘Herren Globus’ and ‘Pure Silk’ as well as two models of ‘Avanti’ (which I suspect was a C&A in-house line).
When I wore the Dunn & Co. aubergine-khaki bomber to the Permanent Style someone, Unless I demonstrated otherwise.
current brand
Some contemporary brands agree with this story. Some, like Stefano Ricci, make silk bombers, but they are not decadent enough. Tom Ford is very silky but not remotely sticky, more fluffy.
The closest possibility is Giorgio Armani revisiting his mid-eighties collections. ‘Archivio’ has recently seen some excellent tailoring and outerwear offerings. Uniquely voluminous and blended with Armani’s signature cupro/viscose, it is the closest current designer echo.
On a recent visit to Armani on Sloane Street I was shown some amazing things 80s look blouson leather (Very trendy at the moment) that offer alternative pads. These hand-made, well-made pads are also an option for regular customers who are into the Armani palette and fabrics, but can’t entertain the ultra-slouch empty-shouldered vibe, or the oversized effect.
I think my silk bombers are absolutely gorgeous to wear and work with. Celebrity pals are happily sporting these, and even some of the aforementioned hackneyed old boys from The Prince George are curious, wanting to know how to buy ‘Links’ or similar. (As I explained, it’s ebay.co.uk and it’s all for less than a point.)
It’s gratifying in a way that they aren’t commonly chosen, and the affordability makes it much less risky. The extra shoulder pads are the only real leap of faith. at least for now. have fun.
As you can imagine, the PS team has been digging since reading this piece, and suggest the following as examples:
For any information about other clothes Tom has worn, please ask in the comments below.
Photography: Dinner Images, Sebago; The Moving Image, The Telegraph; all others, danny miller. Big thanks to Tom from Prince George Pub and Luca for being such stand-up guys.
